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Lorrin Harrison

San Juan Capistrano, California, 1982
There’s a lot of guys who say they’re surfers, but they’re not really. They’re “pleasure boys,” mostly just hanging out on the beach

Drew Kampion interview California surfing pioneer Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison for Surfing magazine in 1982. Harrison was 69 years old.

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You’ve been surfing in California for 55 years. Is it true that the waves here used to be better? 

Oh yeah. I think Corona del Mar had the best surf I’ve ever seen in the world, and I’ve been all over. Or the most consistent surf, anyway. The water would get cold, but we had that west breakwater that knocked out a lot of the wind. The waves would break ...