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LeRoy Grannis

Carlsbad, California, 1994
I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."

Matt Warshaw interview LeRoy Grannis in 1994 for a Los Angeles magazine article titled “When Malibu Ruled.” Grannis was 77.

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Do you remember the first time you surfed Malibu?

The first time we went up there was 1936.

Was it open to the public then?

No, it was still fenced off, there was no beach access.

What kind of fence?

Just a wire fence, right along the highway there. It came down a year or so later.

So how did you get in?

We had a friend in the Colony, so we drove past First Po...