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Jimmy Lucas

Hawaii, 1968
My mother made me my first board, and it was a very good board.

The quotes below were part of a profile titled “Hawaiian Impala: Jimmy Lucas” which ran in the November 1968 issue of Surfing. Lucas was 19.

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FIRST SURFBOARD
My mother made me my first board, and as I look back, it was a very good board. A little big by today’s standards, 10-foot, but a good board just the same.

SHAPER
I used to ride for Brewer, but he moved, so now I get my boards from Diffenderfer. I feel a shaper has to watch me ride in order to suit my needs. Diff does this.

LOYAL...

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